Nonetheless, the boat as well as an outboard motor are still at risk if a transom saver hasn't been installed. They always make sure to harness it safely on the trailer. Many people are always trailering the boat. Why Install Boat Motor Supports & Transom Savers Saving the transom from undue stress while trailering it, a special device known as a transom saver is installed on the boat. This becomes even greater when being hauled on rough terrains, potholed road, or unbeaten tracks. When being towed on land, there is immense pressure or strain placed on the transom. ![]() Ordinarily, the boat transom is designed to support an outboard motor while in the water. On a yacht, it may form the entire lateral wall while in a small boat it can only support the outboard motor. In very large vessels such as ships, the transom is an internal structure. The keel is the boat's backbone hence can withstand a lot of load or stress. It helps in transferring the load or stress from the front and sides of the hull to the keel. A transom is part of the boat hull which forms the back wall or square-end of the boat. Before dwelling on the subject, it's important to understand what a transom is and what it does in a boat. Like many other boaters, you most likely have heard about boat motor supports & transom savers. Some people bolt an "eye" ring thru the cutwater into the stem of the boat for this purpose, but this ruins the looks of the cutwater, imho.Boat Motor Supports & Transom Savers How-Tos The Benefits to Having a Transom Saver/Motor Support System This way the winch strap can be looped thru the front lifting ring, or attached to it, if one doesnt mind scuffing the ring, or wrapped around the ring and attached back to the trailer shaft, all above deck level. Ideally, the winch is placed on the trailer staff higher than the boat deck. There also was a question about how to secure the bow of the boat to the trailer. Higher speeds may suggest more vigorous strapping, but again this is hard to do without affecting the boat finish. for example, the car/trailer speed limit is 55, even on interstates. By going slower, one provides a much greater margin for maneuver, to avoid the slamming of brakes or swerving, two of the major causes of boat shifting on the trailer. Many suggested they were pulling their trailers at 70-75 mph. Well, this post raises an issue discussed here a few years ago about trailer pulling. I have used this method the last two years, and though I have not had to do any dangerous maneuvers, the boat has been securely held on the trailer. In this manner, the boat is unable to shift no more than two inches laterally. ![]() I snug the boat up to the bow chock, install and tighten the bow strap, and snug up the stern strap. The guide posts are welded to the trailer and covered with a PVC pipe This leaves about an inch clearance between the boat and each pipe. My alternative method is to run the strap from the steel guide posts around the stern. I like Don D's idea of installing a large eye bolt through the keel for attaching the strap to but I have never got around to installing one. I originally held the boat down with a strap over the shaft but never felt comfortable with this method because of potential damage to the strut, shaft, and or alignment. I was going to bring this subject up to Matt on WOODYBOATER but since it is being discussed on this forum I have a comment. Also, two short straps are preferred over one long strap due to the acceptable percentage of elongation that straps are built to (longer strap lengths are allowed to stretch a greater length because they are designed around % of stretch, not total length of stretch). ![]() Two straps also allows you to apply extra tension to one side of the other if the boat is not perfectly centered on the trailer (a little extra tension on one side for a couple miles of bouncy road and it will pull the boat back toward center, then you can readjust strap tension to keep it there). This is best achieved with two separate straps going from the strut to the trailer frame. The trailer made a violent tail whip (as one would expect it to do) and my strap, that was so tight you could barely get the ratchet handle locked closed, still allowed to the boat to move nearly 30% off the side of the trailer!! When I got out to inspect and reposition, the strap was still just as tight and the overall length had not changed, it simply slide around the hull shape.Īfter that I started doing to strut strap method. From experience the biggest issue with strapping up and over the back of the boat is that the total length of strap is too long to safely keep the boat in place! This is how I used to strap our boat down until I had my first ever near miss while towing and had to make an evasive swerve while heavily braking.
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